Max hoffmann



(ModeL) M. I IOPFMANN.v PROCESS OF ,EMBROIDERING.

I No; 252,377. W Patented Jan..1'7,1882.

/NVE/V TOR mares UNrrnn FFECEQ MAX HOFFMANN, OF ST. GALLE, SWITZERLAND, ASS'IGNOR TO ULR. DE GASP VONVILLER, OF SAME PLACE.

PROCESS OF EM BROIDERING.

SPEGIFICATIONforming part of Letters Patent No. 252,377, dated January 17', 1882.

Application filed September 17, 1881.

To all whom it may concern:

.Be it known that 1, MAX HOFFMANN, of St. Gallo, Switzerland, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Processes of Embroidering, of which the following is aspecification. r

The object of my improvements is to provide for producing open-workor, in other words,

guipure effects-in machine-made embroidery,

and, moreover, making the threads forming such efl ects of increased strength.

Heretofor'e guipure effects have been pro-- other way'of producing the gui pure efiects has been to slit the fabric at certain places to make stitches between portions where solid embroidery is to be done, to then re-enforce these stitches with other threads which are entwined or wound around them by working through the slits in the fabric, andto finally gather up the portions of the fabricon each side of the said slits in working the portions of solid embroidery. lVhile the threads of the guipure effects are thus strengthened, the portions of solid embroidery are made bulky, and also irregular, according as more or less of the fabric is gathered up at one portion than another. But few patterns can be embroidered in this way, as the guipure effects must always be of such sizes and shapes that the fabric of which they take the place may be gathered up in making the adjoining portions of solid embroidery.

My improvement consists in the process of first boring holes in the fabric to be embroidered, then stitching threads across the same, then twining reenforcing threads through the said holesaroun d the threads stitched as aforesaid and drawing the re-enforcing threads along over the fabric, then connecting the (ModeL) threads so stitched and re-en forced in any suitable manner to form a desired piece of openwork, then stitching the portions of solid embroidery desired, and subsequently cutting away the portions of the fabric remaining between the portions of solid embroidery and behind portions ofthe open-work. In this way I can embroider even the most complicated patterns and produce portions of solid embroidery of neat appearance with regular outline.

The accompanying drawings represent two magnified diagrams or views (marked Figures 1 and 2) of embroidery made according to my improvements.

Referring first to Fig. 1, a round hole, A, and auxiliary round holes A are first bored by means of any ordinary or other suitable boring apparatus through the fabric upon which the embroidery is to be worked. These holes are located at points where threads forming guipure effects or open embroidery are to be produced. These holes may be stitched around the edges with a few stitches, 1 2 3 4, 850., only as many as will be necessary to draw up the loose tatters of cloth that have arisen from the boring of the cloth and to keep the holes in shape. Across these holes the workman embroiders on the front side of the fabric threads to, which are intended to form the open-work figures or guipure effects. After these threads have all been fastened every one of theni has twined around it several more threads, (marked 11,) for the purpose of re-en forcing ity and making it stronger. The needles in makingthese winding stitches have to pass through the said holes to get from the front side of the fabric to the back ofit. The subsequent operation of the needles draws out the threads I), so that they extend the whole length of the threads a. After all the threads at are made across the several holes A A, and after they have all been entwined with the threads b, as aforesaid, the open-work figures or guipure effects are completed as follows: The threads (I, which cross the hole A, are joined by threads (I, and these are twined around with re-enforcing threads, as before. At the intersection of the threads a and d other threads are wound around them to secure them together. Adjacent threads, or, are connected by threads f, wound around them throughout a portion of their length. All that now remains to be done by the machine is simply to Work the solid embroidery portions B, which form the borders or edges of the openwork parts or guipure efiects. In doing this the stitches do not draw in any part of the fabric on which the embroidery is done. The work to be performed by the machine now being ended, the piece of work is taken ed and the portion of the fabric which underlies the parts of the embroidery that are intended to be open are cut off by hand with scissors.

When making any threads which are not to form any figures in the open-work, and which are therefore not interseetin g with other threads, as shown in Fig. 2, theauxiliary holes A must also first be bored through the cloth, the threads stitched over the holes and then twined around with several more re-enforcing threads.

The effect of the open-work cannot but become quite pure and clear, because no particles of cloth slit by the boring apparatus and gathered up by the threads can get between the threads nor between the stitches forming the edge of the open-work.

The removal of all the superfluous tatters of cloth maybe done by scissors after the embroidery is finished.

By this method I claim being able to pro.- duce in any kind of machine-embroidery openwork or guipure effects of the mostcomplicated shapes-such as fine stars, sharp projecting points, spiral lines, &c.-and, moreover, to accomplish efiects in these open spaces which cannot be and have not been perfected by any other method. I am able to produce in a. simple and expeditious manner an almost endless variety of what in machine-embroidery are called wheels -that is, open effects made through the intersection of threads in open spaces of the cloth.

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

The process of embroidering which consists in firstboring holes in the fabric to be embroidered, then stitching threads across the same, then twining re-entorcing threads through the said holes around the threads stitched as aforesaid and drawing the re-enforcing threads along over the fabric, then connecting the threads so stitched and re-enforced in an y suitable manner to form a desired piece of openwork, then stitching the portions'ofsolid embroidery desired, and subsequently cutting away the portions of the fabric remaining between the portions of solid embroidery and behind portions of the open-work, substantially as set forth.

, MAX HOFFMANN.

Viitnesses:

GUSTAV HAGER, J. H. SEIDEL. 

